Key takeaways
- Most single entry doors installed in Central Florida land in the low-to-mid thousands; impact ratings, glass and sidelites push the price up.
- Patio doors vary the most — from a basic two-panel slider to a multi-slide glass wall costing many times more.
- Opening condition (rot, stucco, reframing) is the most common reason quotes differ.
- Always compare quotes on the same product, rating and installation scope.
Illustrative installed ranges for typical Central Florida projects, including standard removal, installation and trim. Your written quote is the only number that counts — size, glass, impact rating, hardware, finish and opening condition all move the price.
“How much is a new door?” is the first question almost everyone asks — and the honest answer is “it depends.” But it does not depend on mystery. The price of a door project comes down to a handful of factors you can understand before anyone visits your home. The table above shows typical installed ranges we see on Central Florida projects; this guide explains what moves a project up or down within those ranges.
What the price usually includes
The ranges above assume a complete, professional installation of a new unit in an existing opening:
- The door system itself — slab, frame, sill and weatherstripping
- Standard hardware (lockset and deadbolt, or the door’s standard handle)
- Removal and disposal of the old door
- Installation to the product’s Florida Product Approval, with sill pan or sealant bed and flashing
- Standard trim, caulk and clean-up
What they usually don’t include: significant rot repair, reframing or widening an opening, extensive stucco and paint work, upgraded hardware and smart locks, or tile work at the threshold. A good quote calls these out separately.
Cost by door type
Entry doors
A standard steel or fiberglass entry door in a typical 36-inch opening is the most common project we price. Moving from steel to fiberglass, adding decorative or privacy glass, choosing a stained woodgrain finish, or upgrading to a multipoint lock each moves the number up. Sidelites and transoms can double the cost of the door alone, and impact glass adds a significant premium — especially on doors with a lot of glass.
Double doors and custom entries
Double doors carry the cost of two leaves, a wider frame, a bolt system for the fixed leaf and, often, an arched transom. Custom wood, iron-accent and pivot doors are priced individually and can run well into five figures, especially in oversized and impact-rated versions.
Sliding glass doors
A two-panel, non-impact slider is one of the more affordable patio door projects. The price climbs with width (three- and four-panel doors), frame material (aluminum and fiberglass cost more than vinyl), glass upgrades and, most of all, impact ratings on large panels.
French doors
A pair of French patio doors typically costs more than a comparable two-panel slider. Converting a slider to French doors can add reframing, stucco and drywall work, because standard sizes rarely match.
Multi-slide and folding glass walls
These are construction projects as much as door installations. Beyond the doors themselves — priced by width, panel count, rating and finish — budgets often include a new header, engineering, flush-sill drainage, stucco, drywall and paint.
Storm and screen doors
Among the least expensive door projects. Full-view and retractable-screen models cost more than basic screen doors; security storm doors cost more still.
Garage doors
Price depends on size (single or double), wind rating, insulation, style and windows. Impact-rated garage doors cost noticeably more than wind-rated doors. Replacing the opener adds to the total.
Interior, barn, pocket and closet doors
Interior doors are priced per door, with pre-hung units costing more than slabs and solid-core more than hollow-core. Whole-house packages bring the per-door cost down. Pocket door retrofits include wall work and drywall finishing, so they cost more than simply swapping a door.
What drives the price of a new door
- Door type and size. Taller, wider and custom sizes add cost quickly.
- Material. Steel is the most affordable exterior material; fiberglass sits in the middle; wood and custom metal cost the most.
- Glass. Solid doors cost less than glass doors. Low-E, decorative, privacy and blinds-between-glass options each add cost, and laminated impact glass adds the most.
- Impact rating and design pressure. Impact-rated doors typically cost significantly more than non-impact versions, and higher design-pressure ratings can require heavier frames.
- Configuration. Sidelites, transoms, extra panels and pocketing or stacking systems add material and labor.
- Hardware. Multipoint locks, designer handlesets and smart locks are upgrades.
- The condition of the opening. Rot, damaged sub-sills, out-of-square openings, stucco and drywall repair all add labor.
- Permits and paperwork. Most exterior door replacements need a permit, and larger jobs may need a recorded Notice of Commencement.
Costs people forget to ask about
- Rot and framing repair discovered when the old door comes out
- Stucco patching and exterior paint around the new frame
- Interior trim and paint where casing changes
- Tile or flooring at thresholds when heights change
- Alarm contacts and cameras that need to be moved
- HOA approval timelines, which can delay ordering
A detailed quote addresses each of these up front, including how any hidden damage will be priced.
Ways to save without cutting corners
- Use standard sizes and stock styles where the opening allows.
- Prioritize impact glass on the most exposed or most-used openings if your home does not require it everywhere.
- Bundle doors into one project to share setup and permit costs.
- Phase the project — the lanai slider and front door first, the rest later.
- Ask about discounts and financing — military, first-responder and senior discounts are common.
- Plan ahead of storm season. Lead times often stretch in summer, and rushed projects leave fewer options.
Why the cheapest quote is rarely the cheapest door
Most door failures we see were decent products installed badly: no sill pan, missing flashing, wrong fasteners, gaps filled with caulk instead of foam and backer rod. Those shortcuts save the installer an hour and cost the homeowner a leaking, drafty door — and sometimes a failed inspection. When you compare quotes, compare the installation scope as carefully as the product. Our guide to comparing door quotes walks through it line by line.
How to get an accurate number
The only way to get a real price is an in-home measurement. A good estimate should give you:
- The exact product line, size, glass and hardware
- The design-pressure rating and Florida Product Approval
- A clear installation scope, including removal, disposal, sill pan, flashing, trim and finish work
- Permit handling and any Notice of Commencement requirements
- The lead time and a realistic schedule
- Product and workmanship warranty terms
Our estimates are free, written and itemized — so you can compare them line by line with anyone else’s.
Frequently asked questions
Why do door quotes vary so much?
Quotes differ in product line, glass, impact rating, hardware and — most of all — installation scope. One quote may include the permit, sill pan, stucco repair and paint; another may not. Compare line by line.
Is it cheaper to replace just the door slab?
The slab alone costs less, but it only makes sense when the frame, sill and weatherstripping are in good shape. On older Florida doors, those are usually the parts that have failed.
Does door replacement add value to my home?
New entry and garage doors are often cited among the home improvements with the strongest resale return, and they improve curb appeal immediately. Actual value depends on your home and market.
Are impact doors worth the extra cost inland?
It depends on your priorities. Impact doors remove the need for shutters and add security and noise reduction; insurance credits usually require every opening to be protected. Many homeowners start with the most-used and most-exposed openings.
This guide is general information for Central Florida homeowners, not engineering or legal advice. Code requirements, product approvals and insurance credits depend on your specific property — we confirm them for your home during the estimate.